Ukraine War Squeezes Street Snack in Uganda

But the price of a rolex has almost doubled in the last year. Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, the world’s breadbasket, has driven up the cost of wheat flour and cooking oil. As in many countries, the hikes are devastating in Uganda, the East African nation where about a third of the population earns under two U.S. dollars a day.

A rolex now costs about 50 cents, distressing fans like Paul Ampurire, who told me he loves the snack so much he keeps a picture of one at home.

Vendors like Enoch Makoba have raised their prices, but still have trouble making a profit. Some have reduced the size of their chapatis, or flatbreads.

Uganda’s government has promised to improve oil production and give farmers support to grow wheat. But President Yoweri Museveni provoked outrage when he told citizens to stop complaining and instead eat cassava, a starchy root vegetable that many consider far less delectable than a rolex.